My African birthday

Posted on May 8, 2014

Khorixas, Namibia: On my birthday, I had hoped to see a giraffe, zebra or elephant. Instead, I was paid a visit from the birthday bananasaurus, a special singing banana that Thomas debuted in 2013. This little guy traveled all the way from Turks & Caicos where he made his last appearance to the Damaraland, Namibia. After a tune and birthday breakfast, we decided to take a one-night break from camping to celebrate in a lodge.

The cute bungalow where we stayed between Khorixas and Outjo, Namibia, served kudu steaks & a nice South African wine for dinner. We watched the sundown, sat by the fire and were serenaded by the native Damara employees who closed out the night with lively song & dance.

Swakopmund & Skeleton Coast

Posted on May 7, 2014

Henties Bay, Namibia: From Sossusvlei, we drove several hours on the gravel roads through the Namib Desert on our way to Swakopmund. We were looking forward to making it to this booming metropolis because the guide book said (a) it was ‘anything but boring’ and (b) the effect of the hot desert against the icy Atlantic made it feel ‘like a movie set.’ Unfortunately, the guide book was wrong. Swakopmund was most certainly boring and actually felt pretty weird. Sure, the fog was a bit reminiscent of San Francisco, but instead of being romantic & mysterious, it was eerie & sketchy.

We found this small city is most definitely still in the throes of segregation, and the inequality between races is pronounced. There are Germans – all of whom immediately spoke German to us assuming we knew it – and there are native Namibians. There seemed to be little mixing of the two.

Our one night there, we found a good German dinner, stocked up on provisions & then immediately continued along our way. From there, we headed north along the Skeleton Coast. This is a treacherous stretch of coast where many ships have become graveyards. The rolling fogs and swirling sandstorms create a ghostly and isolating experience, and it’s among the most remote and inaccessible areas in Namibia. There was no one else around, and again, we felt the eeriness of this region & a little out of sorts.

Camping in Namibia

Posted on May 6, 2014

Windhoek, Namibia:  We picked up our 4×4 in Windhoek and drove south towards Sossusvlei. Based on what we’d learned from our camping experience in New Zealand, we thought it would be reasonable to make it 220 km on our first afternoon. We were wrong. The roads turned from paved to gravel within 20 km of leaving Windhoek, so we were slowed considerably. At twilight, we started seeing wildlife come out for a visit, so we decided to pull off and call it a night. Our campground was situated 8 km off the main ‘road’ overlooking an idyllic canyon where the only others close by were the cicadas who hummed us to sleep.

On day 2, we awoke with the rising sun at 5:30am, packed up our cozy second story tent and headed south to Sossusvlei. The path was full of kudu antelope, a few baboons, some springbok and a friendly fox. Once entering the park, we drove another 65k into the Namib-Naukluft National Park in search of some petrified trees. We didn’t realize it would be so early into our trek that we’d encounter sand driving and the need to engage the 4×4 capabilities of our truck. Thankfully, the car handled it well and we didn’t have to use the sand tracks, rope tow or shovel stowed in the back that many told us we’d inevitably need to use. Camping in Africa…so far, so good.

Chinatown

Posted on April 29, 2014

Bangkok, Thailand: We decided to go in search of fabrics while in Bangkok and everyone pointed us towards Chinatown and Little India. The markets were filled with shark fins, tuk-tuks, good deals and of course, the requisite oddities.

JJ Market

Posted on April 27, 2014

Bangkok, Thailand: When visiting a new place, there’s always one market that everyone lauds ‘Go there, it’s awesome’ but rarely is it really that awesome.  That is not the case with the Jatujak Market. This place is as cool as the Brooklyn Flea, but about 1000x bigger. We thought we’d spend a few hours visiting yesterday, but we loved it so much we came back today for even more. The JJ Market weighs in as the largest market in all of Thailand, covering 35 acres, with 15,000 stalls and 200,000 visitors each weekend day. On one hand, it felt strangely familiar as we meandered through the stalls lined with trucker caps, dodged retro tuk-tuks outfitted with artisan ice creams and rubbed shoulders with BKK hipsters sipping iced coffee. What was completely new, however, were squirrels on leashes, adolescent trannies, carts of fried insects, the mango lady who hocked her goods with both a question and a statement (Mango? Mango!) and our favorite – dried squid on hangers. Yum!!

Our first day in Bangkok

Posted on April 26, 2014

Bangkok, Thailand: As our time in Asia comes to a close, we decided to spend our last week in Bangkok. Our exhausting first day touched on the contrasts this city is known for: vibrant street life, religion & reform. We met up with Melissa’s NY-based friend Taleah who happens to be in Thailand at the same time. We hopped a water taxi down the Saen Saeb Canal with the locals, getting off where we saw some street tailors & interesting food stalls. Instead of immediately finding Wat Ratchanatdaram and Wat Pho as we’d hoped, we stumbled upon a demonstration site with an Olympic-sized television broadcasting political rhetoric and hundreds of protesters’ camp sites. We made our way through and were on to visit the reclining Buddha, a 130-foot gold marvel who appears blissfully unfazed by Bangkok’s sweltering heat. Afterward, we engaged in a lively cross-language argument with a long tail operator who couldn’t believe that No, we didn’t want an hour-long tour and instead hopped back on a water taxi to wind our way back to where we started. We’re exhausted, but captivated with being back in a city after so long. More to come as we experience the multitude of layers this city is known for.

Thailand underwater

Posted on April 12, 2014

Koh Tao, Thailand:  Each day we head out into Jansom Bay and explore what’s under water. After the first few days of being captivated by the beaked coral fish, Christmas tree worms, Harlequin sweetlips, parrot fish, double barred rabbit fish, butterfly fish, long fin banner fish and pink skunk anemone fish, we decided to get an underwater camera case. While we’re not able to capture all of it for the blog, it’s pretty amazing to swim amongst this beautiful marine life.